Food: The Proof Is In
The Portion
We are a large people. 65% of us
are overweight, 30%
actually obese. How did we reach this point?
We ate ourselves into a prison
of our own fat.
Why?
Well, we certainly didn’t sit
down and decide that we wanted
to gain weight, did we? We had no pressure on us to fatten ourselves
for some
eventual slaughter. On the contrary, as our collective girth increased,
we
paradoxically elevated scrawny to a cultural icon, happily dismissing
the
corseted matronly figures of the past two centuries.
Where did the
disconnect between
our reality and our ideals begin?
We can blame the processors who
milled out the vitamins and
minerals we need. We can blame the preservers who cut back on fiber and
freshness in favor of additives and chemicals. We can blame the
packagers who
added sugar and starch to everything. We can blame the fast food
industry for
frying everything and we can blame the beverage companies for their
addictive
colas.
While all of these made their
contributions to our current
plight, one source of our caloric distress runs through everything:
portion
size.
We eat hamburgers – not the
gigantic, multi-patty ones, just
a standard burger – that are 3 times as big as those of 30 years ago.
Our
orders of french
fries are
at least twice the size of their cousins in the 1970s. Pizza no longer
has
cheese only on the top but its crust is also filled. Large soft drinks
are the
size of watering cans instead of baby bottles. Recipes that once
announced
“serves 8” now report “serves 4” with exactly the same ingredients.
Bagels and
muffins are 3 to 4 times as large as their predecessors (and any fan of
Seinfeld knows that only
the tops are worthwhile). Thank
heavens for hormones that can produce the 20 to 30 pound turkeys we
demand for
our holiday dinners.
Compare the small boxes of
frozen vegetables that so awed us
in the 1950s with the huge bags available today, awash in butter or
cheese
sauce. The TV dinners we precariously balanced on rickety tray tables
are now
heavy enough that those same tables wouldn’t hold them.
Restaurant meals have grown as
well, with a “to go”
container almost standard because few eaters can finish them (although
we try terribly
hard). Far from their smorgasbord roots, buffets have become almost
obscene in
their offerings.
Whatever happened to nouvelle
cuisine? Has the fastidious
gourmet been completely swallowed by the voracious gourmand? Is
gluttony no
longer a deadly sin?
We love nothing better than a
good bargain: something for
nothing or, at the very least, at a discount. If we can obtain just a
few more
ounces of something for negligible extra money, we pounce on the larger
size.
If we’re offered two for the price of one and a half, we don’t have to
stop and
think. If we can save money by buying a whole package, even if we don’t
want
all of it, we’ll do it because it makes economic sense (ah, the birth
of super size!)
Where did we get the idea that
bigger is better? Is it the
national legacy of the depression when we swore we’d never “do without”
again?
Is it a natural spillover from our thoughtless squandering of the
world’s
resources? Is it the speed and stress of our competitive lives that
logically
leads to our attacking our food with the same disregard for restraint
we show
in business?
Whatever has brought us to this point,
it is time for us all to cry “enough!” We may fear terrorist attacks or
biological warfare but it is our daily over-consumption of food that is
killing
us. Diabetes, clogged arteries, and other obesity-related illnesses
cost 350,000
American lives a year and the figure continues to climb. The associated
medical
costs are staggering and threaten eventual bankruptcy for the Medicare
system
if not reined back.
Several states and school
districts are attempting to apply brakes
to a junk food society out of control. A change in the structure of our
farm
subsidy programs has been suggested – to reward the growers of healthy
crops
and penalize those who raise the building blocks of edible garbage
(sugar and
corn syrup). Taxation, as has been used to curb the purchase of
cigarettes,
could change the consumption equation by hitting our wallets (and a 1
cent tax
on every soft drink sold in the United
States
would raise 40 billion dollars a year).
However, the great change will
only come when each of us,
individually and collectively, start cutting back.
We need to insist, repeatedly
and loudly, that restaurants
serve child and senior size plates to adults and split orders without
extra
charge (where are the class action lawyers when you need them?) We have
to
demand that small sizes of meal components are offered. We should start
boycotting those huge “economy” sizes of everything from soft drinks,
to frozen
potatoes, to cooking lard, and potato chips.
And the buck finally stops at
our own plate. For our health,
our longevity, and our looks, we must limit how much we eat of
anything. If we
cut our intake in half, we will be doing ourselves, our children, and
our
society a great favor and our bodies will thank us for it.